This is where the hotel excels. There’s a stylish lounge with an ornamental fireplace for a pre-dinner drink (the Brecon gin is recommended). Andrew comes from a long line of wine merchants so expect a well-edited list of wines to accompany dinner, while a chef with a penchant for regional sourcing and foraging makes for winningly fresh ingredients.
Presented on Welsh slate, homemade bread and appetisers such as cockle popcorn and crispy pork bon bons are the prelude to sea-driven starters such as potted Solva crab with laverbread butter and walnut toast. Beautifully cooked mains, big on integral flavours, might include venison cooked two ways with baby root veg, figs and blackberries, or perfectly pink rump of lamb with cockle, leek and Caerphilly cheese gratin. Desserts are unfussy and deeply satisfying: sticky toffee pudding, dark chocolate delice with caramel ice cream, and more.
Breakfast is a decent spread, with fresh fruit and juice, local yogurt and homemade granola. Free-range, orange-yoke Burford Brown eggs are used in hot dishes like scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and the full Welsh with oak-smoked bacon and Preseli gold sausage.
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